Harlaxton to Belvoir Castle

Image: Belvoir Castle, image by Nicola Burford.

7.4 miles 

The day started on the long driveway that leads to Harlaxton Manor, a 19th century blend of Elizabethan, Jacobean and Baroque. It is rarely accessible to the public but I was fortunate to arrive on one of their open days. And what a treat! The interior and exterior are an extravaganza of arches and staircases, domes and mirrors, glass and stone. 

The estate has a long history and was mentioned in Domesday Book as Herlavestune. The Gregorys, a local land owning family, became associated with the estate in the 1730s. It was Gregory Gregory who designed and built the current mansion but by the 1930s the estate was up for sale and the house due to be demolished. It was saved and enhanced by the remarkable Violet Van der Elst, a successful businesswoman and a significant campaigner against the death penalty. Following the Second World War, it was used for a number of purposes and eventually purchased by The University of Evansville, Indiana, USA as their international campus. I cannot think of a finer place to study than this breath-taking fantasy. 

The final stretch of the walk led me down to the Grantham Canal at Harlaxton Drift. Built in 1797 for the transport of coal, this 33 mile long canal linked Grantham with the River Trent at West Bridgford. Like many of Britain’s canals its use declined due to increasing competition from the railways and by the mid-20th century it had been closed. However, in recent years The Grantham Canal Society has restored many miles and much of it is now open to the public. The water was covered in algae and looked like a strange green lane but this cleared as I followed the course of the canal. After a couple of miles, I crossed over Casthorpe Bridle Bridge and, following a short spell on The Viking Way, descended to the village of Woolsthorpe-by-Belvoir and into Leicestershire. I was now on the final leg and in front of me loomed my destination, Belvoir Castle.  

The steep climb to the entrance, passing yet more topiary on the way, was rewarded with the beautiful view that the name suggests, even though the castle and the vale outstretched before me is actually pronounced ‘beaver’. It is the home of the Duke of Rutland and has belonged to the family since the Norman Conquest. The current castle is the fourth to occupy this lofty position. Inspired by Elizabeth, the wife of the 5th Duke, and designed by the architect James Wyatt, it was built in the early 1800s. It has a passing resemblance to Windsor Castle and is often used as a film location for the royal residence. 

Inside, I first made my way to the Aviary Tea Room for a snack and a little bit of social history. It is believed that Afternoon Tea, that most indulgent of British traditions, was invented at Belvoir in the 1840s when a guest, Anna, Duchess of Bedford, became a little peckish and ordered tea, cakes and sandwiches. She enjoyed it so much she continued the habit on returning home and so the tradition was born.   

The castle has many rooms to visit. I particularly enjoyed the atmospheric Guardroom with its roaring log fire and mix of curios, guarded by a cannon on the staircase which leads to the blue carpeted Carriage Landing. The Picture Gallery contains six 18th century impressively carved Italian chairs and is adorned by artists such as Gainsborough, Stubbs, Munnings and Dame Laura Knight all overseen by a full length portrait of Henry VIII.  The grounds contain a number of delightful gardens as well as hilly woodland walks. A major project has been undertaken to create ‘Capability’ Brown’s lost plans for the landscaping following their recent discovery.  

I had reached the end of my journey and decided to take one last look at the Beautiful View. In the distance, I caught a glimpse of Harlaxton Castle glinting in the sunshine and contemplated how much I had relished this meandering ramble. The Kesteven Uplands, with its strong bond with the United States, is a region of contrasts and surprises, marrying slow living with speed records, tranquil countryside with major transport links, attractive villages with scarring quarries, topiary gardens with old air force bases. All proof that not only do humans shape nature but that nature can shape humans, if you follow my drift.