Cardiff to Caerphilly

13.2 miles 

A decent buffet breakfast at the Marriott Hotel set me up for the three mile walk to Llandaff Cathedral. Following the Taff Trail I passed the magnificent Principality Stadium, a cathedral of sorts for the worship of Welsh rugby, and the SWALEC Stadium in Sophia Gardens, the international cricket venue.  Unlike many inner city rivers, stretches of the Taff in Cardiff are a delight to follow.  

Llandaff Cathedral represents the Anglican faith in Cardiff. There have been Christian associations in the quaint village of Llandaff since the Dark Ages but the cathedral itself dates from the 12th century. It competes with Coventry as the British cathedral most damaged during the German blitz of 1941. The interior is dominated by the pulpitum placed on the organ case. The figure of Christ looking down on the congregation below was sculpted by Jacob Epstein and completed in 1957. Although this modern work of art is not to everyone’s taste, I find it both powerful and beautiful. There is much to savour at Llandaff which ranges from work by followers of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood to the very moving tribute to the Welch Regiment in St David Chapel.  

Rejoining the Taff Trail, drizzle accompanied me for the next stretch through the city outskirts, under the M4 motorway and on to Tongwynlais. Beyond the village, I followed a steep drive into the woods, like some modern day yellow brick road, to find, not an emerald city, but a ruby red castle. CADW-run Castell Coch (red castle in English) emerges from the trees as if from the pages of a 19th century German fairy tale. Building began on the site of a medieval castle in 1875, when William Burges, in partnership with John, 3rd Marquess of Bute, began to create another example of extravagant Victorian romanticism. With its conical towers and galleried courtyard, Castel Coch has a very theatrical feel. The rooms are painted in jewel-like colours reminiscent of medieval illuminated manuscripts. In the Banqueting Hall, a pair of chairs with roaring lions for arms stand guard on either side of the fireplace. Lady Bute’s Bedroom has the air of a Middle Eastern mosque, rising to an astonishing dome decorated with a myriad of panels depicting flora and fauna. I was enchanted by the gang of cavorting monkeys seemingly flying around the ceiling. 

After lunch, I left the castle and set off towards Caerphilly, entering the surrounding Fforest Fawr, a woodland run by Natural Resources Wales. This popular place is wonderful for families. There are a number of trails through the trees with animal sculptures and industrial relics to see. Fforest Fawr is often used as a location for film and television productions including the BBC’s Merlin. 

Caerphilly Castle sits at the southern end of the Rhymney Valley (Cwm Rhymni in Welsh) and the river of that name skirts the northern side of the town. The strategic importance of Caerphilly’s location was recognised as far back as the Romans and the town today is dominated by the 13th century castle, the second largest in Britain after Windsor Castle. The Bute family contributed to the survival of the castle in the early 20th century, but unlike Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch there is little of the romantic about Caerphilly. Mighty, strong and dark, it was one of Britain’s earliest examples of a concentric design and its towering walls and extensive moats made it almost impregnable. It was built by the Marcher lord Gilbert de Clare in the 1270s as a result of the threat of the growing power of Llewelyn ap Gruffudd, the Prince of Gwynedd. Following ap Gruffudd’s defeat by Edward I, the castle became more residential and by the end of the 15th century had fallen into decline.  

Today the castle is administered by CADW and the charming staff were both helpful and informative. They suggested I started my visit at the Dragons’ Lair, a smoking, roaring pit, home to four of the mythical creatures. Despite major renovations being underway, I was still able to explore much of this mighty edifice.   

Close to the castle is a statue commemorating the comedian and magician Tommy Cooper, a proud son of Caerphilly. 

 A mile eastwards from the castle is the Y Fan B&B, a delightful grade 2 listed Tudor Mansion and a perfect place to start tomorrow’s walk.